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Views: 0 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2025-08-25 Origin: Site
Have you recently discovered the charm of jumping spiders and are wondering how to keep one as a pet? You're not alone. More and more enthusiasts—from curious kids to seasoned exotic pet owners—are falling in love with these curious, intelligent creatures. Whether it's their big, soulful eyes, their cat-like stalking habits, or their surprisingly social behavior, jumping spiders (Salticidae) have carved out a unique space in the pet world.
This guide is your all-in-one resource for understanding and caring for your jumping spider—from choosing the right species and building the perfect enclosure to ensuring proper feeding, molting care, and spotting health issues before they arise.
•Quick Fact: Jumping spiders are among the few spider species that can recognize shapes, colors, and even human faces. Yes, your spider might actually "know" you.
Let's start with the basics and work our way toward creating the ideal life for your eight-legged companion.
Jumping spiders belong to the Salticidae family, a group of over 6,000 known species found across the globe—excluding only Antarctica. Unlike web-building spiders, jumpers are visual hunters. They don't passively wait for food to fall into a web; they stalk and pounce on their prey with incredible precision, almost like feline predators.
Their hunting prowess is supported by an exceptional set of eyes—eight of them, to be exact, with the central pair (called anterior median eyes) being particularly large and forward-facing. This gives them remarkable depth perception and the ability to detect motion and color, including UV light.
•Did You Know? Jumping spiders have among the most complex visual processing systems in the arthropod world. They don't just see well—they process visual data quickly and make rapid decisions in real-time.
One of the main reasons hobbyists adore jumping spiders is their high level of observable behavior and personality. Unlike tarantulas, which tend to be slow-moving and reclusive, jumpers are active, curious, and interactive. Some will even recognize your hand during feeding or slowly learn to tolerate handling.
They are also highly adaptable, capable of thriving in various climates from rainforests to deserts. In captivity, this means you don't need elaborate climate control systems—just basic care, consistency, and attention to detail.
Their docile nature, compact size, and relatively short lifespan (typically 1 to 2 years) make them excellent starter pets for new arachnid keepers, students, and even teachers introducing kids to the natural world.
While there are thousands of species worldwide, a few have become favorites in the pet community due to their personality, hardiness, and visual appeal. Two of the most commonly kept species in North America include:
1. Phidippus audax (Bold Jumping Spider):
Known for its distinctive white markings and iridescent green chelicerae, the Bold Jumping Spider lives up to its name—often exploring new environments with confidence. Adult females typically grow to 8–19 mm, and males average 6–13 mm.
2. Phidippus regius (Regal Jumping Spider):
Larger and more colorful than audax, the regal is a favorite for photographers and breeders. Males are usually black with contrasting white stripes, while females may display stunning shades of orange, gray, or even lavender. Adults range from 12 mm to 22 mm in size.
Other noteworthy species include Platycryptus undatus (Tan J.S.), Salticus scenicus (Zebra J.S.), and Paraphidippus aurantius (Golden J.S.), all of which offer unique coloration and temperament traits.
Captive-bred jumpers (often listed as "CB" or "juvenile CB") are ideal for beginners. They're typically healthier, better acclimated to human interaction, and ethically sourced. On the other hand, wild-caught spiders are still widely used in the hobby, especially for native species. If you choose this route, avoid collecting mature females (they may already be gravid) and always release what you can't responsibly house.
Jumpers are commonly found in sunny windows, garden walls, wooden fences, and even urban planters. To collect one, use a clear plastic cup and soft brush, never grabbing the spider directly.
•Pro Tip: Never attempt to collect protected or rare species without proper permits, and avoid capturing spiders from pesticide-treated areas.
Creating a comfortable and secure home for your jumping spider is one of the most critical aspects of long-term care. While they can thrive in surprisingly compact environments, the quality of that environment—not the size—is what matters most.
For most species, a 15x15x20 cm acrylic enclosure is more than adequate. Jumpers are arboreal, meaning vertical space is more important than floor area. Taller enclosures allow for hammocks, vertical climbing, and webbing behavior.
Recommended Features:
• Sliding or hinged lid for secure access
• Fine mesh or cross-ventilation (top + side)
• Clear walls for observation
• Front or side opening optional for interaction
Pro Tip: Integrated acrylic reptile enclosures with sliding lids are ideal for jumping spiders. They offer easy access, escape-proof design, and stackability for breeders or collectors.
Though jumpers don't burrow, a thin substrate layer helps maintain humidity and provides traction. Good options include:
• Coconut fiber
• Fine vermiculite
• Sphagnum moss (for species needing moisture)
Enclosure décor isn't just for aesthetics. Sticks, fake leaves, bark panels, cork rounds, and magnetic platforms give your spider essential climbing structures and secure anchor points for hammocks.
Avoid natural items that haven't been baked or sanitized—mold spores and mites can be deadly.
Jumping spiders benefit from a stable day-night cycle. Use a low-watt LED or natural window light (not direct sun) to simulate 12 hours of daylight.
Temperature:
Ideal range: 22–28°C (71–82°F)
Avoid heating mats unless ambient temps are very low. Overheating is a major risk.
Humidity:
Keep relative humidity at 50–70%, depending on species. Light misting every 1–2 days using distilled water is enough. Over-humid conditions can lead to mold or respiratory stress.
• Visual Tip: Include a labeled diagram of an ideal enclosure layout—highlighting substrate, décor, ventilation, and hammock positioning.
Click here to jump to the "Quick & Ultimate Guide: Spider Enclosure Size and Type"
Jumping spiders are opportunistic hunters and often prefer live, moving prey. The golden rule: prey size should be no more than the spider's body length.
Feeding Schedule by Age:
• Spiderlings: Every 1–2 days (e.g., fruit flies)
• Sub-adults: Every 3–5 days
• Adults: Every 5–10 days
Spiders may stop eating before or after a molt. Don't panic—this is normal. Just remove uneaten prey to prevent stress or injury.
Look for a slightly plump, round abdomen as a sign of good feeding. A shriveled abdomen may indicate hunger or dehydration.
Best feeder insects for jumping spiders include:
• Drosophila melanogaster (wingless fruit flies)
• House flies
• Blue bottle flies (especially for adults)
• Mealworm segments (avoid whole worms)
• Pinhead crickets (legs removed for safety)
• Waxworms or spikes (occasional treat)
Avoid:
• Beetles (hard shell)
• Ants (formic acid)
• Earwigs or wasps (aggressive)
If you're unsure your spider is eating, observe from a distance, especially in low light. Some spiders feed when not being watched.
An instar refers to the stage between two molts. Most jumping spiders go through 6–9 instars before reaching adulthood, depending on species. Each molt allows the spider to grow, replace damaged limbs, and mature physically.
Typical stages:
• Egg
• Spiderling
• Juvenile
• Subadult
• Adult (sexually mature)
• Mature (final molt)
Molts slow down as spiders age. A spiderling may molt every 2 weeks, while an adult might molt every 1–2 months—or never again if mature.
Before a molt, your spider will:
• Stop eating for several days
• Become sluggish or hide in its hammock
• Appear slightly dull or discolored
During molt, spiders lay on their back or side. This is NOT death! Do not disturb them. Keep humidity stable and the enclosure quiet.
Post-molt:
• The new exoskeleton is soft and vulnerable for 1–3 days
• Don't feed immediately
• Wait for the spider to regain movement and stiffness
Molting issues (aka "mismolts") can occur due to low humidity, overcrowded enclosures, or disturbance during the process.
Yes—but gently, and with respect for their size and fragility. Jumpers can become accustomed to interaction, and some even recognize patterns (like your hand) over time.
Best practices for handling:
• Never grab or pinch
• Use a soft brush to coax
• Handle over a soft surface (bed, mat)
• Limit session to 5–10 minutes
• Always check if the spider is in premolt before handling
Stimulating environments = happier spiders.
Enrichment ideas:
• Rearranged furniture
• New hides or hammocks
• Miniature branches or hanging leaves
• Daylight-viewing areas
Observe how your spider explores new environments, and adjust based on their response. Avoid overcrowding with too many items—clutter can increase stress.
Jumping spiders are generally robust, but improper conditions can lead to problems. Prevention is key.
| Issue | Cause | Signs | Prevention/Treatment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dehydration | Low humidity | Shrunken abdomen, lethargy | Increase misting, use ICU box |
| Heat Stress | Direct sun, heating pads | Sluggish, panting motions | Shade, cooler room temp |
| Mismolt | Inadequate humidity | Trapped limbs, death during molt | Maintain 60–70% humidity during molts |
| Overfeeding | Too frequent meals | Bloated abdomen, lethargy | Feed on schedule, remove excess prey |
| DKS | Unknown neurological disorder | Twitching, poor balance | No treatment, euthanasia if severe |
| Egg Binding | Failure to lay eggs | Enlarged abdomen, inactivity | No known cure |
| Passive Decline | Age-related weakness | Slipping, reduced webbing | Smaller enclosure, soft floor |
If needed, you can create a Spider ICU:
A clean cup lined with damp paper towel (no standing water), holes for air, kept warm and calm. This can help with dehydration or recovery post-molt.
Jumping spiders don't spin classic webs, but they are master silk users. They rely on silk for building hammocks, securing prey, stabilizing jumps, and creating egg sacs.
Your jumper will naturally choose a high, sheltered corner in its enclosure to spin a silk-lined resting place—known as a hammock or "retreat." It will often return to this spot for:
• Sleeping
• Molting
• Digesting prey
• Avoiding perceived threats
Once built, the hammock should be left undisturbed. If your spider is sealed inside, it may be molting or laying eggs.
Good hammock locations include:
• Behind leaves
• Corner of walls and lids
• Inside decorative bark tubes
Before every leap, a jumping spider deploys a dragline of silk—a built-in safety mechanism. If it misses the landing or is startled mid-air, it can climb back along the line.
This behavior, called "bridging," is crucial in complex environments. It also helps:
• Stabilize movement in vertical setups
• Prevent accidental falls during feeding or interaction
• Enhance enclosure design (fewer hard drops)
Female spiders may spin silk-covered sacs to deposit fertilized eggs. This behavior can occur even in captivity if the female was mated before capture. Each sac may contain 50–100+ eggs.
If you're not a breeder:
• Avoid keeping mature wild-caught females
• Remove egg sacs (humanely) if population control is a concern
Female spiders may guard the sac or abandon it depending on species. Do not disturb a guarding female—this can cause cannibalism or sac abandonment.
Jumping spiders undergo complete lifecycle progression in captivity, making them excellent study animals for classrooms or curious hobbyists.
After hatching, spiders go through multiple instars (molts) before reaching adulthood. Each molt represents:
• New size
• Physical features like color changes or bristle growth
• Regeneration (if limbs were lost in earlier molts)
You can track your spider's progress by counting molts or labeling their current instar (e.g., "i5" = 5th instar).
Young spiders molt every 2–4 weeks. Adults may molt just once or stop entirely after reaching maturity.
As spiders age, they naturally reduce movement and feeding frequency. You may also notice:
• Thinning leg hairs
• Slower reaction time
• Difficulty climbing vertical surfaces
• Incomplete webbing behavior
This is largely due to the degeneration of setae and scopulae, the microscopic bristles on the spider's tarsus that allow them to grip walls and walk upside down.
How to help aging spiders:
• Add soft substrate (e.g., napkin layer)
• Use shorter decor to prevent injury from falls
• Avoid live crickets—offer pre-killed prey
• Downsize to smaller enclosures for easier access
With extra care, an elderly spider may continue to explore and eat well into its second year.
• How long do jumping spiders live?
Most jumping spiders live 1–2 years in captivity, depending on species and care conditions.
• Can jumping spiders recognize their owner?
Studies suggest that some species can distinguish shapes and movement, possibly recognizing your hand or feeding pattern.
• Do they need heat lamps or UV lighting?
Not necessarily. Maintain room temperatures around 22–28°C (71–82°F). Use soft LED lighting to simulate natural day-night cycles.
• Can I house two spiders in the same enclosure?
No. Jumping spiders are solitary and will cannibalize one another if kept together.
• How can I tell if my spider is about to molt?
Common signs include refusing food, hiding in its hammock, and becoming sluggish or dull in color.
• What should I do if my spider falls?
If your enclosure is properly padded and the fall isn't from extreme height, they'll usually recover. Monitor for leg injury or loss.
• Is it safe to catch a jumping spider from the wild?
Yes, if done responsibly. Avoid pesticide-treated areas. Don't take more than you can properly care for, and avoid mature females.
• Can children keep jumping spiders?
Yes—with adult supervision. They're gentle, low-maintenance pets ideal for teaching responsibility and observation.
| Category | Recommended Items |
|---|---|
| Feeding Tools | Soft tweezers, paintbrush, catch cup |
| Hydration | Fine mist spray bottle, pipette, distilled water |
| Décor & Setup | Cork bark, faux foliage, safe adhesives (100% silicone, Mod Podge), magnets |
| Lighting | 5–7W LED lamp with 12h on/off cycle |
| Feeder Insects | Drosophila, blue bottle flies, pinhead crickets, waxworms (as treats) |
| Enclosure Type | Acrylic arboreal enclosures with sliding lids and top ventilation |
| Substrate | Coconut fiber, moss, napkins (for elderly), vermiculite |
Caring for a jumping spider is more than a hobby—it's a fascinating window into one of nature's most intricate miniature hunters. With the right habitat, proper feeding, and attention to their behavior, even a spider the size of your fingernail can become a deeply rewarding pet.
Whether you're drawn to their vivid colors, expressive eyes, or curious exploration style, jumping spiders offer a surprisingly personal connection with the natural world. And the best part? You don't need a giant terrarium or years of experience—just patience, observation, and a willingness to learn.
Ready to begin your journey with a pet jumping spider? Explore our collection of acrylic arboreal enclosures, safe spider décor, and feeder kits to set up the perfect habitat today.
