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Views: 0 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2025-06-27 Origin: Site
Bearded dragons are medium-sized lizards ranging from 18 to 24 inches in length, featuring scales in hues like gray, beige, or orange—though various other colors are also bred in captivity. Their signature trait is the expandable, spiky pouch under the throat, resembling a beard, particularly when it darkens.
These reptiles originate from eastern and central parts of Australia, where they inhabit regions such as deserts, scrublands, and arid woodlands. Though they're often labeled as ground-dwelling, bearded dragons are adept at climbing and naturally inclined to dig.
Young bearded dragons are referred to as hatchlings until they reach approximately two months of age. During this early stage, they grow from about 3 inches to nearly 9 inches in length. From three months onward, they enter the juvenile phase, which lasts until they're roughly one year old. After that, they are considered sub-adults, reaching full maturity around 18 months.
There are several crucial aspects to keep in mind when raising a baby bearded dragon. Young dragons, in particular, use their mouths to investigate their surroundings. Because of this behavior, there's always a possibility that they might accidentally ingest something harmful. To minimize this risk, using a non-loose, solid substrate is recommended—especially when live feeder insects are part of their diet.
Speaking of feeders, baby beardies have an enormous appetite for insects—and they need a large number of them! Baby dragons should be offered as many feeder insects as they can eat within a 10–15 minute window, twice daily. This can total up to 30 insects per feeding session. Small crickets and dubia roaches are excellent staples, but adding a mix of other insects helps broaden the dragon's nutritional profile. Though they may show little interest in greens at this age, protein intake is the most important factor during their rapid growth stage. So don't be alarmed if salad isn't yet their favorite.
Another essential component of care is heating and lighting. Due to their smaller size, baby bearded dragons often require lighting and heat sources to be positioned closer to their basking spots in order to reach the proper temperature zones. If you're housing them in a compact enclosure initially, ensure that temperatures are well-managed so your dragon doesn't overheat and always has the option to move into a cooler area for thermoregulation.
With appropriate care, bearded dragons can live between 10 to 15 years or even longer in captivity. They typically reach their full adult size between the ages of one and two.
Bearded dragons generally grow to a total length of 18–24 inches (45–61 cm), including the tail. Their weight typically falls between 10 and 18 ounces (283–511 grams). They experience their fastest growth during the first year of life.
• 4x2x2 reptile enclosure (120 gallons minimum)
• Dome-style heat lamp
• Two 100w halogen flood bulbs (white light)
• Plug-in dimmer for light adjustment
• Infrared temperature gun
• Digital thermometer and hygrometer with probes
• 22–24 inch UVB light fixture and bulb
• LED grow lights for plant health
• Live or artificial plants
• Zip ties for securing equipment
• Logs, natural branches, or stones
• Digital outlet timer
• Hiding cave or corner shelter
• Dedicated food and water dishes
HANZE offers front opening acrylic enclosure that support proper air flow, as well as enough vertical and horizontal space for thermoregulation and activity.
Modern husbandry practices recommend housing bearded dragons in enclosures no smaller than 120 gallons (48"L x 24"W x 24"H). Starting a baby dragon in its adult-sized enclosure is not only safe but encouraged. Providing enough room from the beginning makes thermoregulation easier and prevents overheating in tightly enclosed basking zones.
A front-access design enhances maintenance and interaction. A mesh top also helps with ventilation, and generally—more space equals a happier dragon.
Bearded dragons are solitary and territorial by nature. Housing two or more together often leads to confrontations, injuries, or dominance-related stress—especially as babies mature quickly. To prevent aggression and ensure safety, it's best to house one dragon per enclosure.
Bearded dragons are active during the daytime and require both visible light and UVB to thrive. Their environment should be well-lit, with particular attention given to basking zones and overall lighting temperature.
UVB lighting is essential for bearded dragons, but achie
ving the correct intensity (UVI) depends on distance and whether a mesh obstructs the light. For a 48” x 24” x 24” enclosure, a 22” Arcadia Dragon 14% bulb should be installed on the warm side.
Recommended positioning:
• With mesh above: Place the basking area 7–11” beneath the UVB bulb
• Without mesh: Position the basking area 12–18” below the light
(For precise results, use a Solarmeter 6.5 to aim for a UVI of 4.0–6.0 at the basking site.)
Full-spectrum lights (6,000–7,000K) enhance mental alertness and appetite. Note that these daylight lights are not substitutes for UVB. You'll need two separate lighting systems—one for UVB and one for daylight.
Bearded dragons regulate body temperature by shifting between warm and cool zones. In captivity, they rely on halogen lamps for warmth.
• Basking surface: 105–115°F (40–46°C)
• Cool zone: 70–85°F (21–29°C)
100w PAR38 halogen bulbs are typically enough for achieving basking temperatures in 24” high enclosures. Use a dimmer switch to fine-tune the heat, or upgrade bulb wattage if temperatures are too low.
Use an infrared thermometer to get spot temperature readings, and place a digital probe thermometer at the basking site to monitor heat levels continuously.
Bearded dragons do best in ambient humidity ranging between 30–60%. Place a digital hygrometer probe on the cooler side of the tank to monitor this. Persistent humidity above 60% may result in respiratory problems.
Since young dragons explore their environment using their mouths, it's best to avoid loose substrate that could be ingested. Solid substrates such as tile, newspaper, paper towels, or mats (or comparable alternatives) are safer for hatchlings.
Once your dragon matures and learns to eat insects more skillfully, you can transition to loose substrates, if desired.
Decorative elements do more than enhance aesthetics—they serve as enrichment, encouraging movement and exploration. Provide enough items to allow for climbing and hiding.
Suggestions include:
• Hollow cork logs
• Flat cork pieces
• Mesh hammocks
• Cholla wood or ghost wood
• Grape wood branches
• Artificial or live foliage
• Magnetic ledges or basking platforms
Young bearded dragons require more insect-based protein compared to adults. Offer insects twice daily in appropriate sizes, giving as many as they will eat within 10–15 minutes (often up to 30 per session). Though vegetables should be available, don't worry if your baby isn't enthusiastic about greens right away.
Feeding frequency by age:
• Hatchlings (0–6 months): Insects twice daily, greens every day
• Juveniles (6–12 months): Insects once daily, greens every day
• Adults (12+ months): Insects 2–3 times weekly, greens every day
Bearded dragons are omnivores and benefit from a wide variety of plant matter. Nutritious vegetables include:
• Collard greens
• Cactus pads
• Arugula or spring mix
• Kale (in moderation)
• Bok choy and alfalfa
• Pea shoots and carrot tops
• Spinach (sparingly)
• Dandelion greens
• Hibiscus leaves and clover sprouts
For a deeper dive into dragon nutrition, refer to your vet's guidelines.
Young dragons should receive calcium powder with nearly every feeding. Calcium with D3 and multivitamins can be alternated in. Avoid over-supplementation by spacing out multivitamin use and varying calcium types.
How to apply:
• Place feeder insects in a container, add supplement powder, and shake to coat evenly
• Sprinkle a small amount of supplement on moistened greens
Most dragons don't need D3 supplementation every feeding if UVB is correctly provided. Use calcium without D3 regularly, and rotate calcium with D3 into every third or fourth feeding.
Baby dragons can be more energetic and nervous than adults. Begin by handling them inside their enclosure or close to the floor to prevent accidental falls.
Tips:
• Always approach from the front to avoid triggering their flight instinct
• Support all four limbs to make them feel secure
• Use gentle, steady movements to encourage trust
• Avoid pulling at loose shed skin
• Keep sessions brief (5–10 minutes) in the beginning
FAQs
Q1: Can I cohabitate a bearded dragon with other reptile species?
A: No. Bearded dragons should always be housed alone—even with other lizards. Cross-species cohabitation can lead to stress, illness, or aggression.
Q2: How often should I clean the enclosure?
A: Spot clean daily, especially around feeding areas and waste spots. Conduct a thorough clean of the habitat every 1–2 weeks.
Q3: How do I know if my dragon is stressed?
A: Signs of stress include glass surfing, black beard coloring, lack of appetite, or excessive hiding. Reevaluate lighting, temperature, or enclosure layout.
Q4: Can baby dragons go outside?
A: Yes, but only under strict supervision in a secure, escape-proof area. Ensure temperatures are ideal and UV exposure is natural but not excessive.
Q5: Is misting necessary for baby dragons?
A: Occasional misting can aid hydration, but fresh water should always be available. Most hydration needs are met through greens and reptile water bowls.
By understanding and meeting your baby bearded dragon's needs—from lighting and feeding to handling and enrichment—you're laying the foundation for a healthy, happy pet. With attentive care and a proper enclosure, your dragon can grow into a strong, confident adult. For reliable housing options, explore HANZE's selection of professionally custom reptile enclosures.
